Tossup

An equation describing these phenomena was derived by Davis and Acrivos and uses the Hilbert transform to model instantaneous pressure. The use of Jacobi elliptics to solve a form of these phenomena leads to them being called cnoidal (10[1])(“cuh-NOY-dull”). By setting a parameter (10[1])describing these phenomena equal to infinity in the ILW equation, one recovers the Benjamin–Ono equation. Solving the differential equation [read slowly] “u triple (10[1])prime (10[2])minus (10[2])six (10[1])u u prime (10[2])minus c u prime equals zero” gives one of these phenomena (10[1])that is proportional (10[1])to (10[1])hyperbolic secant squared and that maintains its shape. These (0[1])phenomena are called collapsing if their (-5[1])Iribarren number is sufficiently large. The first observed soliton was one of these phenomena. (-5[2])These phenomena reach a critical point and then break, (-5[1])leading to eddies. (10[2])For 10 points, name these phenomena (-5[1])that include tsunamis. (10[2])■END■ (10[6]0[3])

ANSWER: water waves [accept any body of water so long as they say waves; accept solitons until read; accept surface waves or (surface) gravity waves or wind waves or breaking waves or deep water waves or intermediate water waves or shallow water waves; accept breakers until “break” is read; prompt on waves by asking “in what medium?”] (The first line is the Benjamin-Ono equation. The third line is the depth parameter. The differential equation is KdV.)
<Physics>
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